Why won’t my snake eat?

it is normal for a ball python that is in shed or in certain stages of the breeding process to refuse food but in almost all other cases, when a ball python refuses to eat, its due to husbandry issues. If your snake misses more than 2-3 meals, please check the following possible causes:

Enclosure too large — A common misconception when people get their first ball python is that they need a large enclosure. Because ball python spends most of their lives in tunnels, they have developed a strong preference for smaller spaces. If offered an enclosure that is too large, they will feel exposed and worry more about possible predation than searching for food themselves. Large enclosures also make maintaining proper heat and humidity challenging. Some individuals can have a higher tolerance for improper enclosure sizes than others so it is important to note that just because your other ball python(s) is/are fine with similar encloses, it doesn't mean they all will be.

Lack of Security – In the wild, ball pythons spend the majority of their lives in dark rat dens and termite mounds so if their enclosure is exposing, they will feel stressed. Providing an adequate number of snug fitting hides, blacking out the sides of their enclosure, or simply adding clutter (such as snake safe plastic plants or crumpled up newspaper) can greatly add to their feeling of security. Aside from breeding purposes, never house more than one ball python in an enclosure. This is a solitary species that becomes stressed with company. What looks like cuddling to us, is competition for resources to them.

Over Handling — Frequent intrusions into the enclosure, changes to the enclosure, and/or long frequent handling sessions can cause a shy snake to feel vulnerable and refuse to eat.

Improper Temps/humidity — Temps & humidity that are too high, low, or fluctuate too much. Make sure you have an accurate and consistent way to measure these things. The analog gage type thermometers/hydrometers are greatly inaccurate.

Improper Lighting — Bright lights shining directly into the enclosure, or 24-hour lighting can cause stress. If your enclosure is being illuminated in any way, make sure you are allowing for night cycling.

Offering New Prey — Changing prey species (ie: mice to rats) or methods (ie: live to f/t) can cause refusal. Such changes can be made but may require patience and persistence. If the snake is losing weight, switch back to the preferred prey.

Improper Offering of Prey — Offering prey too frequently can do more harm than good. If a snake refuses, do not attempt to feed again for a few days. Also, changing environments by moving to a feeding- box or removing hides and “furniture” can cause refusal in these shy snakes. Moving a ball python to feed is entirely unnecessary. Many believe that feeding a snake in its enclosure causes the snake to become aggressive, but this is myth. In fact, moving to feed is stressful on the animal and handling after a meal is consumed can cause regurgitation.

Prey Too Large/small — Improperly sized meals can be turned away from a ball python. Meals too large might be perceived as a threat and meals too small might not interest your snake enough to trigger hunting behavior.

Impaction —If your snake has not eaten in a while but has a noticeable bulge, there is a possibility of impaction. This could just be a buildup of fecal matter which can be remedied with a warm soak, or foreign blockage of substrate. Loose substrate such as dirt and sand can be accidentally consumed and build up in the digestive tract overtime until a blockage is formed. There have also been cases of snakes accidentally consuming sheets of paper towels that were accidentally snagged on the last rodent they ate. Foreign blockages will require medical intervention to alleviate.

Mites — An external parasite common to snakes that must be treated and eradicated. A products like Provent-a-Mite (P.A.M.) and Reptile Spray are safe and effective if used as directed.

Seasonal — Sexually mature ball pythons may fast for anywhere from a few weeks to a few months during cooler seasons (typically anywhere from late fall to early spring) especially if a sexually mature snake of the opposite sex is in close proximity. Females often will fast once they hit the 1000g mark.

Illness — If all other possible reasons are eliminated, am exotic vet check may be in order to look for internal parasites, diseases, or possible infections to the skin, scales, mouth or respiratory system. Testing for viruses and some parasites can be done with an at home test (see our section on Viruses & Biosecurity).

Fortunately, ball pythons are extremely hardy snakes that can go for months (if necessary) of fasting without suffering any ill effects. This gives a responsible keeper plenty of time to figure out why the snake refuses to eat and get them on a regular, consistent feeding regiment. However, if a drastic or sudden weight loss is noticed, contact a vet immediately!